How to Choose a Balm for Eczema

There are hundreds of balms marketed at people with eczema, and most of them make very big promises. Some of them are excellent. Some of them are expensive moisturisers in premium packaging. A few will actually make your skin worse.

Here is how to tell the difference before you spend the money.

What a balm should actually do

A good eczema balm does three things:

1. Softens and moisturises skin that is tight, dry and cracked.
2. Creates a protective barrier that helps your skin hold on to moisture and keeps irritants out.
3. Does not introduce new problems – no fragrances, harsh preservatives or ingredients that trigger reactions in sensitive skin.

That is it. If a product does those three things reliably without irritation, it is doing its job. Everything else is marketing.

How to read the label

Look at the first five ingredients. Ingredients are listed in order of quantity. The first five make up the bulk of the product. If the top ingredients are water and synthetic emulsifiers, you are paying for a cream, not a balm. A genuine balm typically leads with waxes, butters or oils.

Watch for water as ingredient number one. Water-based products are lighter but provide less occlusion (barrier protection). For very dry, eczema-prone skin, waterless or low-water formulas tend to provide more lasting protection because there is less filler diluting the active ingredients.

Check for fragrance. This is the single biggest red flag. “Fragrance” or “parfum” on a label can represent dozens of undisclosed chemicals, and fragrance is one of the most common triggers for eczema flare-ups. This includes “natural fragrance” and many essential oils.

Essential oils are not automatically safe. Tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and citrus oils are common in “natural” skincare but can be highly irritating on broken or eczema-prone skin. Some people tolerate them well. Many do not. If the product is heavily scented, be cautious.

Preservatives matter. Products with water in them need preservatives to prevent bacteria and mould growth. Some preservatives (methylisothiazolinone is a notorious one) are known sensitisers. Waterless balms often need fewer or no preservatives, which reduces one more potential source of irritation.

What to be sceptical about

“Clinically proven” without specifics. Proven to do what, exactly? Moisturise? Most things moisturise. A meaningful clinical claim specifies the condition studied, the number of people, and the outcome measured. Vague claims are usually legal filler.

“Miracle” and “cure” language. No balm cures eczema. Eczema is a chronic condition involving barrier dysfunction and immune response. A good balm supports your skin and provides comfort. Anything promising to cure it is either lying or does not understand the condition.

Celebrity or influencer endorsement. The person selling it probably does not have eczema. Look for reviews from people who describe your specific skin situation.

Extremely long ingredient lists. More ingredients means more potential for a reaction, especially on sensitive skin. A shorter, cleaner formula is often a better bet.

Ingredients worth looking for

Ingredients that consistently show up in well-regarded eczema care:

Beeswax – creates a breathable protective barrier without fully occluding the skin. Holds moisture in while letting skin function normally.

Shea butter and cocoa butter – rich, deeply softening plant fats. Good for very dry patches and cracked skin.

Olive oil and jojoba oil – nourishing oils that absorb reasonably well. Jojoba in particular is structurally similar to the skin’s own sebum.

Calendula, chamomile and chickweed – traditional botanicals with gentle soothing properties, widely used for irritated skin.

Vitamin E – an antioxidant that supports healthy skin. Often found in quality balms.

Colloidal oatmeal – proven soothing and barrier-supporting ingredient, available both in products and as a bath additive.

None of these are miracle ingredients on their own. What matters is how they are combined, how concentrated they are, and what is NOT in the formula alongside them.

A practical test before you commit

Patch test first. Apply a small amount to an unbroken area of skin (inside of your wrist is common) and wait 24 hours. If there is no reaction, try it on a small eczema-affected area. Redness, stinging or increased itching means stop.

Give it two weeks. A good balm typically brings some noticeable comfort within a few days, but meaningful improvement in barrier function takes consistent use. Do not judge a product on one application unless it causes an obvious reaction.

Pay attention to what happens when you stop. A well-formulated balm should leave your skin in better condition over time, not create dependence. If your skin immediately deteriorates the moment you stop, the product may be masking a problem rather than supporting real improvement.

Price and value

More expensive does not always mean better, but genuinely good ingredients (quality beeswax, cold-pressed oils, hand-blended formulas) do cost more than synthetic filler. A balm that costs £3 and lists water, paraffin and fragrance as its main ingredients is a cheap moisturiser, regardless of its label.

That said, the most expensive option on the shelf is not automatically the right one either. Focus on the label, not the price tag.

---

Rescue Balm by Essence of Nature is a waterless, fragrance-free balm made from 24 natural waxes, butters and oils – no water, no fillers, no synthetic fragrance. It was created by someone with a lifetime of eczema who spent 36 attempts getting the formula right. See the full ingredient list or try it here.